About the project
The Queer Wardrobe Project was created to challenge erasure of bisexual and pansexual women in fashion, and in culture. Aimed at fashion aficionados, queer folk and academics, the exhibition offers new perspectives on queer style.
The project is led by Gwyneth Holland, and was instigated as part of her dissertation for the Cultural and Creative Industries MA at King’s College London. As an Arts-Based Research project, the online exhibition pairs rich imagery with insightful testimonials, to consider the role of style for plurisexual (bisexual, pansexual and queer) women.
For Phase 1, participants were interviewed (by Gwyneth) and photographed (by Leanne Benson) during Summer 2022. Phase 2 is now recruiting in and around London during Autumn 2022.
About Gwyneth:
“I love fashion, I always have. I’ve worked in the field for over 20 years, and I always argue that despite its many problematic aspects, fashion is important because it allows us to express who we are. We can celebrate our individuality or share a kinship with wider groups through how we choose to dress. But for me, fashion has perhaps been about disguise as much as visibility: a way to hide my body or create a shield in unpredictable situations.
This project is not about me, but i am undeniably in the research. Some of the participants’ concerns are the same as mine - bi erasure, self-acceptance, negotiating queer stereotypes and keeping my queerness “alive”.
To help me consider how i negotiate my own identity alongside that of my participants, I took shots of myself - in my messy bedroom, overflowing with clothes - before each interview, and any visits to queer spaces. Some of the themes evident in participants’ testimonies are visible in these selfies too, balancing femme and masc with red lipstick and a men’s watch strap, disrupting femininity with Birkenstocks, as well as wearing queer-coded garments like dungarees.
As the project develops, I can see a kinship in how we wear and think about clothing. Bisexual and pansexual style may not be as clear-cut as other stereotypes of queer dress, but it reveals a shared way of thinking about clothing, negotiated daily according to space, situation, body and identity.
I can now feel a sense of that group identity that’s been missing for so long, while celebrating my individuality just as all our wonderful participants do.
About Leanne:
“I love to photograph people feeling themselves in their spaces, and this project really sums that up. I’d hoped I might be able to shoot a few participants but was delighted to be able to do them all. It’s the kind of project I’d like to be photographed for myself.
When I am shooting portraits my general inclination is to shoot the subject in their location, using natural light with minimal tweaks. I believe this is a much more authentic approach when it comes to environmental portraiture. Making sure subjects are relaxed gives a more natural shot, allowing each viewer to connect with them in a way that is organic.
I visualised the portraits before taking the shots and knew that framing the women in centre shot, maintaining eye contact would be the way to go. I wanted to place these women centre stage. Bisexual people, as a group, are often not recognised day-to-day, so I wanted to show these women absolutely dominating the frame. I hope they will be able to see their true selves when they look at the photos, and realise that they can, indeed, speak through fashion to the queer community if they choose.
Clothes and fashion are a big way of visually presenting who we are to the rest of the world, and if wearing a certain style of boots, or a traditionally more masc item of clothing, makes people feel more themselves, this is to be encouraged.
Personally, I have always enjoyed offsetting my femininity with something more masculine, and this is how I have always wanted to present myself, even as a small child. The opportunity to photograph women who may present in a similar way to me was very exciting, and I have enjoyed hearing their stories. Seeing what items of clothing they chose to wear and what these items meant to them, whilst also seeing myself reflected in many of the answers, has been brilliant.
I hope this project can encourage queer women to express themselves and their sexual identity through their outfits.”
